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"Great Support."

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"I never thought that I would be a owner of a hair care business."

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Editor's Note: December '24

Sustainability – Denim and its ability to be part of the process!

Denim is one of those iconic fashion items that seems to be forever in a trend cycle. Sometimes it’s in and sometimes it’s just out…

It was about two years ago that we saw the cycle go back up again when Demna Gvasalia, founder of the fashion brand Vetements, put vintage Levi’s on the catwalk. They called them ‘re-worked’, meaning that Vetements took the vintage product and adjusted it with a cool, couture sensibility. The collection now seems to be permanently in the Vetements stable, becoming their signature jean.

Not for the faint-hearted, the jeans have taken on the status of investment pieces and retail for about $1,200. You could almost liken them to the secondary art market where the artist sells a piece on. In this case, Levi’s would have retailed the jean for about $60 but once re-purposed they can be sold for over 10 times that a few years later. In addition to Vetements, Demna became creative director at Balenciaga two years ago where he is disrupting the fashion industry by amassing a huge fan base of cool kids who love his contemporary, streetwise aesthetic. It’s what he calls “making the ordinary extraordinary” and the “method of appropriation: using the things around us and turning them into a new product”. Demna says that there are so many pieces of clothing out there, he felt he had no right to invent anything new other than taking things that already exist and modelling them into something different.

It’s innovators like Demna who are driving the upswing in the denim trend once more. The jeans market is expected to hit over $90bn this year and will keep going north for the foreseeable future, according to Euromonitor. The first half of 2017 saw the women’s jeans market grow by a staggering 79% compared to last year, figures from retail technology company Edited show.

It’s no wonder then that music artist Pharrell Williams, who is well known for both his style and his environmental activism, last year invested to become the co-owner of eco-friendly Dutch jeans company G-Star RAW. Three years ago, G-Star launched its RAW for the Oceans clothing line, a collaboration with Pharrell’s Bionic Yarn textile company which produces a fiber made from discarded plastic retrieved from the ocean.

The tie-up between G-Star and Bionic Yarn is a fascinating one. G-Star, which now has sales in excess of $1bn, has for many years worked to find materials that contribute to a more sustainable future without compromising on quality or design. Shubhankar Ray, G-Star’s inspirational global brand director between 2006 and 2016, was at the forefront of this unique approach to manufacturing, which has included blending recycled cotton and unusual fibers like nettle into the heart of its denimwear.

Levi’s has also taken huge strides in its approach to sustainability, such as through its Made of Progress campaign. This includes innovations such as its Water<Less process, whereby Levi’s aims to reduce the amount of water used in the denim finishing process by up to 96%, and its Waste<Less collection – products that are made of 20% post-consumer waste such as recycled plastic bottles.

It seems to me that Millennials are sick to death of party politics and are far more interested in dealing with the wider issues in the world, such as environmental degradation. Could it be that denim is thriving because initiatives by these market-leading brands have contributed to the rising demand from young consumers?

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